SEGNI Land Art Installation, Carso Upland, Doberdò Lakes Nature Reserve

GRAND OPENING OF THE INSTALLATION 
(PRESS CONFERENCE AND OPENING WITH A VISITED TOUR): 
October the 20th, 2018, 11.30 am
Reservation is highly requested: https://www.eventbrite.it/e/biglietti-segni-inaugurazione-dellopera-di-land-art-visita-guidata-49876336465

Two monumental red signs, condensing the vocation of a whole territory. This is how artist Joshua Cesa makes fully visible a fragment of the border between Western and Eastern Europe: border which, during centuries, has split up populations forcing them to adopt new national identities (in recenthistory, with the World Wars). The installation rises in the middle of the Carso Upland, in the Doberdò Lakes Nature Reserve. Built of fabric, and designed to be gradually consumed, the artwork has a colour that recalls the surrounding landscape’s chromatic scale, dominated by a type of karstic bush called “Sommaco”, to which a significative historical memory is connected: it’s belief that its autumn red leaves are actually the fallen soldiers’ blood resurfacing on the upland.

The visitor will be able to enjoy the artwork from different perspectives and points of view, even going inside it, discovering different perceptions of  the boundary and its continuous movements.

Joshua Cesa, was born in 1986 in Monfalcone (GO) and graduated from the University of Architecture in Udine, develops his art combining architecture with digital, installative and contemporary art, experimenting on the issue of conflicts to share the memory among local people. Cesa uses Land Art getting inspiration from the monumental and environmental impact of some Christo’s artworks, and so he did for his latest project “Segni”. This installation consists of the rappresentation of a fragment of the borderline between Western and Estern Europe through two monumental straight edged signs built of special fabric tipically used to fabricate sails, more than four metres tall and respectively 30 and 36 metres long, placed on the Carso Upland, in the village of Doberdò.

Indeed, the borderline has been moved on several occasions during the World Wars, splitting up populations and forcing survivors to assume a new national identity they didn’t feel comfortable with. The two signs are made in a blood red colour in accordance with the surrounding landscape’s chromatic scale, dominated by a type of karstic bush called Sommaco to which an important historical memory is connected: they say that its red autumn leaves are actually the ancient fallen soldiers’ blood that resurfaces on the upland.

For around a month, from the 20th  October 2018 to the 18th November 2018, the visitor will have the possibility to enjoy the artwork from different perspectives: closely, so they could perceive the kinetic nature of the artwork, internally and from above, from the promontory of the nature reserve where the artwork’s shapes and dynamism pointing towards the sea can be easily caught. In particular, looking at the installation from the right side people may have a perception of breakthrough and tension to the destination, while on the left side the sensation will be the opposite.

This tension reminds the visitors of the public imagination of the Carso Upland as frontier with Eastern Europe, since it witnessed the World War I and the Cold War, in the period of the Berlin Wall when it was the last Italian fortress.

In a contemporary moment of transition, full of violence, the artist want to encourage the vistors to pay attention to the mortality of human beings, metaphorically represented by using a fabric that is deriberately designed to be gradually consumed by weather conditions.

World War One maps of Italy: a new majestic work soon available

A new majestic work edited by Aldino Bondesan (University of Padua) and Mauro Scroccaro (historian) will be soon available. The title is Cartografia militare della Prima Guerra Mondiale. Cadore, altopiani e Piave nelle carte topografiche austro-ungariche e italiane dell'Archivio di Stato di Firenze (Padova, Antiga Edizioni, 2017) and will become for sure a new starting point for all the researches on the Italy front of World War One. 

This impressive work collects and reproduces almost 250 war maps. Most of these maps are Austro-Hungarian and give us a clear view of the Italian war front between 1915 and 1918. The achievement was possible thanks to the cooperation of Marco Polo System, Archivio di Stato di Firenze, Antiga Edizioni, Università di Padova and Regione del Veneto. 

In the coming weeks we really hope to offer you more contents about this.

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no.20: The Monument area "L'isola dei Morti" in Moriago della Battaglia

It is not actually what people could consider a “one day itinerary” what we suggest today, but nobody prevents you from spending in this place a full day. When you travel the concept of time you spend in a place can be really variable. And while travelling in the Venice area and in the Treviso province in particular for your WWI battlefield tour, you might consider a stop in the village of Moriago della Battaglia, along the left bank of the river Piave. This was an area dedicated to agriculture and in October 1918 became strategic in the final stages of the conclusive Battle of Vittorio Veneto that ended the war in the Eastern front. Today this river side area is a Monument area. “A strip of land which juts out towards the stony bed of the river Piave, once known as the “Isola verde” [Green Island]. Here, on the night of  26 October, 1918, the courageous men of the 1st Infantry Division, with  brigades from the 8th Army close behind, crossed the river at Fontana  del Buoro, creating a bridgehead which made it possible to liberate the left bank of the river. Hence the new name, “Isola dei morti” [Island of  the Dead]. Today it is a memorial area with monuments and parkland commemorating the sacrifice of so many young lives, set amidst a stunningly beautiful natural environment which features walks, mature  trees, meadows and of course... the imposing River Piave ” 

We just want to leave you with three essential tools to organize a trip that can be undertaken in all seasons:

a) The localization in the village of Moriago della Battaglia;

b) A link where you can see some pictures of the area;

c) A PDF leaflet by the project moriagoracconta.it (in English and Italian) where to get important information and from where we took the above part in italics.

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no.19: Monte Piana plateau

The plateau of Monte Piana is not so astonishing like the panorama you have in front in the area of Tre Cime di Lavaredo or Monte Cristallo, but represents for sure a nice, quite easy and above all instructive day (even half day) itinerary in a small area around the peak of Monte Piana. This mountain of the Sexten Dolomites range was the scenario of a slow massacre in World War One years. The area overlaps with the former 1753 frontier between the Republic of Venice (Serenissima) and Tyrol (a boundary stone is still visible on site). Immediately after the war outbreak, early June of 1915, the troops of Standschützen tried to gain the summit around the Piramide Carducci: heavy casualties on both sides and fundamentally a stationary front line for the remaining 30 months were the results of the war in this plateau of the Dolomites. One of the main targets of the Austrian attacks was the area of the Forcella dei Castrati, that is a kind of landmark of this short itinerary, a depression in this gibbous plateau where you can admire magnificent florescences.

In 1977 the Dolomitenfreunde, a group of volunteers headed by Walther Schaumann, restored the trenches and the former positions of the two fronts and the resulting path is now a really instructive and easy itinerary with breathtaking views appearing on each side. As always, even the easiest walk can turn into something dangerous, therefore we invite you to keep the highest level of attention, with particular regards to the steep and rocky side looking at Landro valley (some parts of the itinerary are equipped with special steel ropes and a set of harnesses is recommended). The starting point is Rifugio Bosi (Tel. +39 0435 39034, email: rifugiomontepiana@tiscali.it, here on Maps) that you can reach also from Misurina with a special jeep service (in summer) or snowcat service (in winter). Of course you can reach the hut by foot from Misurina and it’s going to take between one hour and one hour and a half. From the Bosi mountain hut you can easily reach the historical path (look always for the yellow signs and follow path no. 6a). Like we already wrote, pay particular attention to the most exposed segments of the path that lead you among Italian positions and then to the very large summit of Monte Piana (2324 m. above see level, 7625 ft) . You can proceed toward the centre of its plateau through the Italian trenches and wire fences touching in a rapid sequence the aforementioned Piramide Carducci and the Forcella dei Castrati, the Italian stronghold. Follow the path 111 and the “Cengia della Guardia Napoleone” with some exposed parts and partially equipped with steel ropes and you will see the two galleries of mines. Once you're come back on the plateau you’re in the Austro-Hungarian positions. At this point you may reach the “Dobbiaco Cross” and the beginning of the “Pionierweg” (a steep path ascending from the Lake of Landro) where you can have a good overview of the surrounding area. The way back is a descent through the Austro-Hungarian trenches that touches again Forcella dei Castrati and Piramide Carducci and bring you you back to the Rifugio Bosi.

(One of the next posts will be a photo reportage offered by Ugo Agnoletto, taken during this itinerary three years ago. The two pictures above are courtesy of Ugo Agnoletto. In the meanwhile, other interesting images of this mountain area are visible at this link.)

Suggested map: Tabacco no. 10, Sextener Dolomiten/Dolomiti di Sesto, 1:25.000, here a brochure in English, Italian and German.

As for our suggested itineraries, though every possible effort to provide accurate information on this site, you are solely responsible for interpreting and using this information to organize your trip and excursion and to evaluate all potential hazards according to your own capacities and risks inherent to the different natural environments.

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no.18: Val delle Mure – Croce dei Lebi – Cima Grappa

Monte Grappa #4

An excursion on Monte Grappa at the beginning of the winter (but also now, taking into consideration the weather and snow conditions) is a highlight for all those who wish to understand fully what the Great War on this mountain range was. A discreet assistant appears in fact during this period: the snow! When a white blanket covers the valleys and the slopes, it is of course very hard to recognize the remnants of the World War One and one must pay attention in hiking here, since you get quickly lost, if you do not know the paths, and small avalanches are also possible. But the first snow is a precious fellow: like a sprinkle of powdered sugar, it paints white the landscape and makes so the trenches stand out with black zigzag which climb the meadows or crossing the woods. We’d like to suggest today a particular suitable itinerary for this purpose.

The starting point are the trenches of Monte Boccaor. You can reach them if you park your car near the Rifugio Bellavista, in the Valle San Liberale, and then following the path n.153 and then, on the crest, turning left on n.152, as we suggested in the first itinerary on Monte Grappa, here. The ascension takes about 1h30. You can also eventually drive up to Rifugio Ardosetta (website here), which lies at the mouth of the Valle delle Mure; but we advise against this option, especially in winter, since the road is impassable (but also in summer: after all we want you to hike and to discover these mountains on foot).

From the summit of the Monte Boccaor, just walk along the trenches and descend to the Valle delle Mure, where our today itinerary actually start. While descending, you have the chance to look at the near inclines, and recognize the Italian trenches on this side of the valley. And if you look carefully on the other slope, in front of you, you’ll be able to glimpse also the Austrian ones. While walking along the trenches we also suggest to keep silent: you may have the chance to see groups of chamois grazing all around. As you reach the bottom of the Valle delle Mure, you have to climb the opposite slope. There is no numbered path, but you can easily walk among the meadow (pay attention, however, with the first snow they could be quite slippery), making your way towards the summit in front of you. You will reach so the path n.156, which corresponds to the Alta Via n.8, also called “Alta Via degli Eroi” (Heroes High Route), and the Croce dei Lebi. This is a perfect panoramic viewpoint. If you turn North you can see first of all Valle dei Lebi, with the Austrian trenches. And in the distance the first Dolomiti range, Monti del Sole, the underlying valley and the city of Feltre, and behind even the peaks of the Pale di San Martino. If you look east, you can see instead the ridge where you are which runs to Col dell’Orso and Monti Solaroli: here there was a crucial defensive line from November 1917 and October 1918. Behind these peaks of the Monte Grappa range, you can also see the Prealps of Treviso. And then turn again, this time to look south. You’ll be able so to admire the Valle delle Mure and the Pian dea Baea, recognize the trenches of the Monte Boccaor, and see in the distance the plain and the Colli Asolani. Finally, turn West so to locate immediately the Rifugio Bassano, that you can now reach easily following the path n.156. This latter is very easy, it turns into a small road in the final section – but pay attention to the ice – and on its side there are some shelters dug in the rock. You will reach in short the Rifugio Bassano, where you can eat and drink something. We suggest you to walk to the near Sacrario Militare and visit also the other monuments nearby. The way back to Val delle Mure is the path n.151: it starts just behind the Rifugio Bassano, leads you to Malga Val Vecchia (an old Alpine hut, which offers refreshment only in summer) and then to a paved road, which runs on the left to the Val delle Mure, at the lower point of the trenches of the Monte Boccaor. The circuit starting and ending here takes about 2 hours, inclusive the break at the Refuge. You can eventually reach the car at the park near Rifugio Bellavista in about 1 hour following the path n.151, which starts exactly here.

This is a simple but pleasant itinerary, which can be undertaken during the whole year, but it is particularly fascinating with the first snow, as we already said. If you do not believe us, anyway, don’t miss the upcoming reportage: you will get a clearer idea if you have a look to our photos! 

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no. 17: Monte Totoga and its "Stoli"

View on Val Vanoi from the Stoli

The Italian and Austro-Hungarian front line is drawing more and more interest, not only among historians of the First World War, but also among simple visitors and hikers. And yet, some of its sections still remain out of the usual circuits of mass tourism – luckily! – offering so the chance to visit environment in which nature, anthropomorphic interventions and historical memories coexist in a living symbiosis. This is the case of the Primiero and Vanoi Valleys, along which the former front line run (here an overview in Italian and German). As the Great War broke up, being the bulk of the Austrian Army engaged on others fronts and yet mistrusting the Italian ally, the Double Monarchy settled immediately at least a defensive line close to the Lagorai range, up to the Passo Rolle, so to use the natural bastion of mountains between the Fiemme Valley and the Primiero. Especially during the battles in the summer and autumn 1916 the fortifications built on Monte Cauriol, Cima Cece and Colbricon were crucial to stop the adversary and are still today visible. On the other side, the Italian Army, although much more numerous, was forced to build up its assault and defensive lines in a more difficult geographical environment, lacking in natural and solid bastions: a line of advanced posts was formed on Monte Cauriol and on the eastern summit of Monte Colbricon only during the last battles in the 1917; different fortifications, trenches laid instead on the bottom of the Vanoi Valley (Refavaie – Caoria) and then climbed up the opposite range of Mezzogiorno and Valsorda Peaks, reaching then the Calaita pass and the Pale di San Martino. However, the most imposing Italian defensive line was created a little bit behind of this front and included above all the fortifications on Monte Totoga that we suggest to visit with a simple – suitable for all hikers - and short – altogether 4 hours – itinerary.

The entrance to the upper gallery

Starting point is the small hamlet Gobbera, on the homonymous pass. If you come from Imer you find on your right a small car park, just before entering the hamlet. Park the car there and have a look to the near informative totems. Then walk on and if you need to buy something to eat or drink do it in the local shop in front of the church, since there’s no refreshment on the way. However the itinerary is not so overwhelming, so, if you have water with you, you can also take immediately the path n. 345 just behind the church, walk among the few houses and after running along a small pine grove, take the mule track, which still corresponds to trail n.345. The path is really easy, even if it becomes more and more narrow and stony. During the summer it may be very hot, that’s way we suggest to undertake this itinerary in spring or autumn (in this last case, pay attention to the leaves, they’re very slippery especially on the way down), but the panorama on the Pale di San Martino is really beautiful. At a certain point you find a crossroads: if you walk on the “normal” path, slightly on the left, the excursion would be easier but also longer, that’s why we suggest to take first the small trail on your right, which steeply climbs the slope, reaches the path n.345 again and leads you in short to a small unattended refuge San Gualberto, where you can rest and eat, but only if you’ve taken something with you. Otherwise walk few steps on and visit the near Italian fortifications, whose entrance is on your right. The so called Stoli are wide galleries dug on the limestone of Monte Totoga, as usual with huge openings, meant to enable the positioning of heavy artillery. The galleries are two, placed on different levels (one above the other) to strengthen the fire attacks against the Austrian line, and dominate the Val Vanoi. You can walk in the humid corridors and visit the dark shelters (take a torch with you!) and above all look at the valley below and the small village of Canal San Bovo. After visiting the Stoli, take a short walk on the top of Monte Totoga: near the entrance of the upper gallery, on the right, a really tiny and almost invisible red mark signals the path which runs among the wood and is sometimes very difficult to follow (so, pay attention especially to the red marks on the bark of the trees!). From the summit you can contemplate the Lagorai range and especially the couple Cima d’Asta – Cauriol, looking at each other. The way back follows the ascending path, but you can eventually avoid the steep trail, remain on the path n. 345, walk through the Prà di Totoga – a pasture – and then reach again the Gobbera pass. You can eat and rest here, in the small and nice restaurant of the hamlet, or drive to Canal San Bovo and stop for a rest along the road.

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no. 16: Forte Interrotto and Monte Mosciagh on the Altopiano of Asiago

Driving to Asiago, at the heart of the Altopiano of the same name, gives always an impression of getting out of the “contemporary world” and of entering another dimension. This does not mean that the small towns of this plateau (also called Altopiano dei Sette Comuni, since it gathers seven municipalities) are stuck in the past, on the contrary. Asiago for example is equipped with all facilities and opportunities one can wish for a nice vacation. Nevertheless you immediately feel that the sense of time and space are quite different from that of the near plain of Bassano and Vicenza, and even quite different from that of the near valley of the river Brenta or the mountain region of Trento. 

It hinges on the fact that the Asiago plateau, like many others plateaus, has developed over time a sort of autarchic management of the local natural and human resources. There are of course historical grounds for this situation, being the Altopiano the settlement of a minority from the Cimbri tribe, with its own language and a huge political and economical autonomy till the XIX century. There are also geographical grounds, since Asiago was hardly accessible (even today, when you can drive on comfortable roadways, it takes quite a long to reach Asiago from the near Bassano) and used to be isolated from the rest of the world for a large part of the year (the winter is really very cold and snowy!). Stated in short, if in the mountain valleys and regions you have always the perception of a uninterrupted relation with the plain southwards or with the biggest centers, i.e. cultural and economical intersections, of the Alpine region, the Asiago plateau seems to be trained to stand alone or at least to look at the northern or southern connections, even if essential, as something peripheral or accessory. 

This is the reason why this region offers even today an unspoiled nature and – which is here the point – a particular historical memory related to the Great War. The Asiago plateau is in fact one of the few places in Italy which have endured the WWI at the front line throughout the conflict, i.e. for more than 40 months. 

The old border line between Italy and the Austrian-Hungarian Empire ran before WWI along the northern limit of the plateau. As in May 1916 the Austrian Commander in Chief, General Conrad von Hotzendorf, decided to start the Strafexpedition (Punitive Expedition) against the former Ally, now treacherous Enemy, the tableland of Asiago stood obviously in the middle of the aggression and, at the beginning of the conflict, was invaded. The Austrian advance toward the southern edge of the Altopiano, which represented a sort of springboard on the Venetian plain, was however arrested at the beginning of June 1916. The Austrian Army was so forced to retreat and to fix the front line from the northern slope of Monte Pasubio, across Monte Zebio, just at the back of the town of Asiago, and, turning than north, over Monte Ortigara (the situation changes after the Caporetto rout, shifting the front line southern on the Altopiano and straight over the Grappa range and the river Piave).

No surprise then if you find trenches and monuments – especially military cemeteries – related to the Great War almost everywhere here. However the visitor is impressed not only by their number, but also by the unique scenery, they are placed in. The isolation and autarchy of this region get along with a deep care of the natural landscape. Pastures and woods are meticulously farmed and protected, and yet still respected in their spontaneity. It’s a sort of symbiosis between humans and nature which embraces also the traces of the tragic events of WWI, so that you have the strange feeling of peace and deference, even while visiting the trenches or the military cemeteries. 

And a newly restored itinerary through five war cemeteries was the goal of our spring excursion. Unfortunately the weather condition weren’t good enough to walk it completely. We suggest therefore today to our readers only a part of it as a foretaste and postpone the itinerary through the war cemeteries and the trenches of Monte Zebio for a while.

The itinerary is very simple, last about 3/3.30 hours all together, and is accessible for everybody in good physical shape (you just need suitable shoes). Starting point, from Asiago few kilometers towards Trento, is the hamlet of Camporovere. Park in front of  the church of Camporovere and walk shortly backward, with direction Asiago. On your left you will find a small road with the brown sign indicating Forte Interrotto. Follow it and reach the meadows, which immediately climb the slope behind the houses. We suggest to walk first along the road, crossing then the grove of Monte Rasta and reaching in about 30 minutes the Forte Interotto. The imposing structure of this military base – which is only erroneously called Fort – was build during the second half of the XIX century. Completely made of stones and based on medieval building models (it looks like a castle, indeed), the structure was a perfect observation and defensive outpost, dominating the wide valley of Asiago, and was equipped therefore with machine guns and cannons. It was occupied by the Austrian Army only during the attack of may 1916 and connected with Monte Rasta, where an armored observatory was immediately placed. Till the end of the Great War it served also as billet for the troops and if you walk short in it you can easily recognize the rooms used as dormitory, kitchen, stable and as food water or ammunition storage. Informative placards illustrate the history of Forte Interrotto and  at the entrance show photos taken before and after its renovation as part of the project of an Ecomuseum Great War of the Pre-Alps of Vicenza.

If you have time, we suggest to continue the excursion and reach in about 45 minutes the war cemeteries of Mosciagh following the so called Sentiero della pace / Friedensweg (a 68km itinerary on the trail of the WWI in the Altopiano). Behind Forte Interrotto take the forest road and at the first crossroad follow the path on the left with direction Colle del Mosciagh. After an immersion in an absolutely charming fir wood, you can easily reach a small monument dedicated to the Catanzaro Brigade, which served the Italian Army already in the terrible battle of May-June 1916 in order to stop and drive back the Austrian attack. A few meters beyond, two Austrian-Hungarian war cemeteries rest in a small dip at the feet of Monte Zebio. When we reached them, they were almost completely plunged into the snow – the photos evidence that an excursion here has to be planned for the late spring/early summer! But despite the weather conditions, it was worth walking among these tiny (wood and stone) grave markers, stumble upon the single name or the (always hard to swallow) number of Unbekannte – unidentified names, faces, story lives. And nevertheless, above all, the wood surrounds and protect this place, in peace and respect.

The way back follows the same path to Forte Interrotto and than goes down, eventually across the meadows, to Camporovere. When you have reached the car, you can eat something in one of the restaurants in the hamlet or you can drive to Asiago, where there are many places to take refreshment. But, once you are here, don’t forget to visit the renowned War Memorial of the Great War: it is a will and a pleasure.

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no. 15: Col Fenilon and Col Moschin

Monte Grappa #3

Roman Column on Col Moschin

This new itinerary enables the visitor to discover a place, which became legendary during the late spring 1918, namely Col Moschin. The Italian front line ran at that time from Monfenera up to the eastern edge of the Grappa range, where the strongholds of Col del Miglio, Col Fenilon and Col Fagheron dominated the Brenta river Valley and its entry into the plain, representing therefore a critical point. The positioning of the Italian troops was here particularly difficult, since they were holding on to the mountain areas closest to the plains, along the cliff edge. In the early morning of June 15th the so called Battaglia del Solstizio started with the intent to attack from Grappa and reach via Vicenza the plain. At the beginning the Austrian assault, protected by the fog, succeeded in breaking through the front lines and in conquering the main enemy’s outposts. But already the day after a small Italian unit got back all the positions. The reconquest of Col Moschin was assured by a raid of the Arditi, whose feat is still commemorated with a roman column and a plaque on its summit. The itinerary is very simple, only during the winter it could be difficult because of the snow on the top. With an altitude gap of more the 1.000 meters, it takes about 5 hours all together.

The starting point is the hamlet of San Nazario, at the beginning of the Brenta river Valley. Since the roads are really very narrow, we suggest to drive immediately to the post office and to park in front of it.

Walking down, back to the central street, and turning right you’ll reach in few meters the starting point of the path n. 38, which lies again on your right and is signaled with an informative board. Follow it along a small river bed till you reach the real track which starts with a small bend on the right. The first part of the path is simply incredible since it consists in a single stony ladder which climbs with hairpin turns the steep slope. It’s hard to conceive today the hand work required to build all those steps, used during the Great War to bring supplies up to the front line, probably in particular heavy artillery by mules. The walk presents no difficulties, even if it’s quite demanding due to the gradient of the path. You’ll have however the chance to rest if you take the time to have a look at a small hut you skirt, at the view on the Valley below and above all at the observation points and the rests of small recoveries along the ascent. Almost at the top of the slope, after a small niche, in a grove of broad-leaved trees, pay attention on your left: you will recognize the entrance of a tunneled trench. You need a torch to visit it and pay attention in walking in it: the exit with the observation point on the valley is as beautiful as dangerous because it leans over a sheer overhang and has no protections.

The path climbs up, runs along bushes and another majolica niche and reaches then a small road. Just cross it and follow again the path n. 38 which leads to the pastures on the top. If you look at your left, you’ll immediately see the metal cross on the top of Col Fenilon (1.327 m.), from where you can look at the landscape ranging from the Asiago plateau, on the other side of the Brenta river Valley, to the Cima Grappa. Leaving behind your back this latter, you will see the near Col Moschin. Before reaching it, however, we suggest you to cross the meadow and to rest at the near Rifugio Alpe Madre, where you can eat something and maybe natter with the hosts. The Rifugio lies exactly halfway, between the two summits. As soon as you are ready, go on and walk up to Col Moschin (1.279 m.) where you can see the roman column in memory of the battle of June 1918 and have a look at the surrounding landscape. The way back follows the road just below, runs again along the Rifugio Alpe Madre and then rejoins the above mentioned intersection with path n.38, which descents on your left

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no. 14: the Brenta river valley and the "Sentiero del Vu"

Picture taken during the itinerary

The river Brenta runs from the lakes of Levico and Caldonazzo, near Trento, to the Adriatic sea. Before reaching the Venetian plain and the city of Bassano with its renowned wooden Old Bridge (also called Ponte degli Alpini because the General Cadorna and the Italian Army crossed it to reach the Asiago plateau during WWI), this river flows in its first section through a narrow gorge surrounded by high mountain ranges. And just before Bassano it is surrounded by the Grappa on its left side and exactly by the Asiago plateau on the right one. If you drive today on the provincial road, you will probably think this is a quite inhospitable region: the small villages along the Brenta river valley climb on the one hand the mountain slopes with effort, trying to steal few meters of cultivable plots of land; on the other hand they slip to the bank of the Brenta river, which represented in the past the fastest commercial and transport connection for the local inhabitants. Now, try to imagine these villages during the years of the Great War, as they were suddenly transformed in a crucial passage to and from the front-line.

To introduce you to the history of the World War I in this Italian region we would like today to suggest an itinerary near Valstagna, a small village on the right bank of the Brenta river, about 15 Km northern from Bassano. As Italy entered the conflict, all houses of the village were occupied by troops coming from or going to the front line on the Asiago plateau. Civil population was forced to work at the construction of roads, water cisterns and other infrastructures for war necessities, before being completely evacuated in 1917. Since it represented for the Austro-Hungarian Army one of the entrance point to the Venetian plain, the whole valley and especially Valstagna became a strategic point, it is therefore not surprising to find even today a lots of signs of the events of those years. At the back of the village a web of mule tracks and paths climbs the steep side of the mountain, on whose top is the Asiago plateau. Part of these trails used during the WWI date back to the early modern age, when the tobacco plantation was the main economic resource for the valley inhabitants who connected with small paths the tiny terraced fields they had dug on the rocky slope of the mountain. This paths are today at the center of a touristic project called “Alta via del Tabacco” (further information, unfortunately only in Italian, here) and were recently equipped with new information panels. Among them one can find also some Great War itineraries, and we’d like today to suggest you the “Sentiero del Vu”. The path takes the name from Albino Celi, also called el Vu (the “You”), since he addressed everybody with the formal form of Vu, Voi (i.e. You). He was born in Valstagna at the end of the XIX century and he gained his life selling war wrecks (metals or gun powder) that he collected on the Asiago plateau or on the Ortigara. He died in 1963, becoming an example of the deep connection between the inhabitants of the Brenta river valley, the mountains and the War. Albino Celi was in fact recalled also in the work of the Italian author Rigoni Stern (Le stagioni di Giacomo - Giacomo's seasons, 1995) and in a docu-film by Ermanno Olmi on the Recuperanti, (literally "the rescuers" or "the collectors"), i.e. the poor inhabitants of the region that after the WWII collected and sold as Albino el Vu the war wastes scattered in the near mountains during both the world conflicts . 

The Sentiero del Vu overlaps the path n.775, an old military track of the WWI which leads to Col d’Astiago (m.1240). It takes in total 5.30/6.00 hours and can therefore be undertaken only during the spring or the summer. Anyway a shorter version of the itinerary which does not reach the summit and follows an alternative way back is perfect also for the autumn and the winter time, that's to say for this period. We’d like today to suggest you this one because it presents no difficulties, it's short (in total about 3.30-4.00 hours) and fits each year season. It enables therefore almost everyone to discover the traces of the Great War in this valley.

Starting point is the hamlet of Londa, in the village of Valstagna. Park near the cemetery, then walk along the main road with direction Valstagna only few minutes. In the center of the hamlet you will first see a slim white house on your right with a niche of the Virgin; few steps further on your left, you then see a red house of the XVIII century on the background and before, always on your left, the signpost of the path n.775, also called “Sentiero del Vu”. Follow it turning on the left, walk along the houses and, turning again on the left, cross the terraced fields, once used for the tobacco plantation (and admire the dry-stone walls, a masterpiece of engineering!). In about 15 minutes you will see the first trenches and mule tracks. There is also a 50 meters long gallery, which was used for the artillery fire. Looking from the 4 gun openings you will have a perfect view on the valley on north, toward the Grappa, on Valstagna and the Brenta river valley and finally on the south, toward the plain and Bassano. Follows the path and walk again about 5 minutes and you will cross the “Alta Via del Tabacco” (AVT). A white label gives you information about the “Tobacco Road” and your position. Turn then right and walk again on path n.775 till you reach a small hut, today almost ruined, and short after, on the right and signaled with a wooden sign, small trenches with observation points toward north, that we recommend to visit. Continuing then on the original path you will reach in short a fork: on the right the path n.775 continues with an equipped itinerary and reaches Col d’Astiago, on the top of the mountain, in about 3 hours. This could be fine if you are well trained and in an appropriate season, but since we’re talking today about a “winter itinerary”, we suggest you this time to turn right. Actually you will see also on this right side the indication of path n. 775 with direction Col d’Astiago in 3 hours, but follow instead the Tobacco Road – Alta  via del Tabacco among the wood, till you find on your right an indication to the Contrada Postarnia (m. 448). You can walk down immediately, but we suggest you a small deviation: if you walk few steps ahead, you will find on your left a path climbing the slope: it’s an old mule track of the Great War, which leads you in 15 minutes to the Contrada Mandre (m. 786) (open only during the summer time), where you can seat and enjoy the landscape also on the Asiago plateau. Then turn back, walk down toContrada Postarnia and reach through a stony road - once again from the war time - the center of Valstagna, where you can finally find a place to eat something. If you have some more time, it is maybe worth to drive to Bassano and visit the Ponte degli Alpini and the local WWI Museum.

(Here below is the video of the mentioned film I recuperanti directed by Ermanno Olmi.)

First World War One Day Itineraries. Suggestion no. 13: Krn - Monte Nero

View from the ascending path

Today we’d like to suggest you an itinerary in the eastern edge of the Alpine arch, namely in the Julian Alps, quite south, not far away from the Adriatic sea: an itinerary to the top of the Krn range (in Italy called “Monte Nero”, Black Mountain, due to a misunderstanding of the Slovenian name). As Italy entered the conflict, the Austrian-Hungarian Army withdrew from the old border on the left bank of the Isonzo, since it was easier to defend, and took position on a front line that run from the Rombon Mountain, across the Carso to the sea. Only few miles to the east of Caporetto, the massif of Krn that thrusts ridges in all directions and reaches the 2.245 m. was one of the highest peaks in the valley. We are therefore in the region of the battles of Isonzo River, fought between June 1915 and October-November 1917, one of the fiercest chapter of the Great War on this front. Already during the first month of the conflict the Italian Alpini conquered the summit of Krn, fortified it with trenches and caves and kept control over it till 1917 and the 12th Isonzo Battle, when they were forced to beat a retreat with the Caporetto rout. This mountains bears witness of the destructive power with which WWI affected not only human history, but also the nature: galleries, fortifications but also big mine craters created by mines explosions upset the landscape here. An excursion on the Krn Mountain discloses therefore a tragic, yet important page of the history of the Great War in the Alps.

The today itinerary climbs the southern slope of the Krn. It does not present any particular difficulty and is a little bit shorter than the others ascending path (for example the other classical itinerary, on the northern side, starting from Lapena Valley), but can be done only with optimal weather conditions. If you are trained and in good physical shape, the ascent takes about 3h00. You need the normal mountain equipment and in addition a helmet, a lamp and – don’t forget! - drinking water which is hard to find during the ascent. You should start hiking quite early in the morning, since the path is sun-drenched; otherwise you may take some additional water. Put eventually in your backpack also some food, especially if you’re not going to undertake the itinerary in the summer (the refuge on the top may be closed).
Starting point is about 1km outside the little village of Krn, where you can find a small car park. If you look up, at the top of the mountain you can nearly recognize the refuge. Start walking along the track departing from the park. After about 1 Km, on the right a path marked on the rocks climbs up through “malghe” and pastures and reaches the old mule track; follow it. When you are nearly half of the way, you we’ll cross the path ascending from Dreznica (steeper and less frequented). The trail climbs up then with many hairpin turns till the refuge Gomisckovo Zavetisce which is placed only 5 minutes under the top. If it is open, you can have a rest here and eat something. Otherwise we suggest you to reach immediately the top and take a break there. An unforgettable panorama is offered to you: the Julian Alps (with the Canin Mangart Tricorno ranges) and, far beyond, the Dolomiti, at your side, and then the Austrian peaks on the north-horizon, and then turning again, the Slovenian and Croatian border, and south the coast of Istria, the gulf of Trieste and the Adriatic sea. If this was regarded as a “forgotten front” for a long time in the historiography, you will probably understand how this interpretation was a reductive mistake: just try to connect these places with their cultures and their historical heritages, from the Romanic and the Slavic till the Austo-Hungarian and the Italian ones, try then to think about the melting pot which embodied these regions and - as a consequence - the intestine conflicts blew up with the WWI.

The nearest point at which you have to glance lies few meters away: the peak of Mountain Botagnica (also called in Italian “Monte Rosso”, Red Mountain), that you can eventually reach. You have in fact three possibilities to return back to the car. 1) You can walk down the ascending path. 2) You can walk along the marked path from the top of the Krn to the near pass between the Black and the Red Mountain, the Krnska Srbina, where you can find relicts, among others one of an old cannon. From here you walk down along a trail which leads you back near the crossing point with the path ascending from Dreznica on the previous mule track that runs to the parking area. 3) Otherwise, from the Krnska Srbina you can climb to the top of the Botagnica (about 100m of altitude gap). The path follows an old war passage with rocky ladders, it is therefore quite narrow and exposed but it is worth, since on the top you find a small plain with many remnants of the Great War. Following the marked path (on the rocks or with other signs) you walk above a small lake (you may also cross some innocuous snowfields) then reach another small pass where the descending path starts and runs to a “malga” (a small hut with pasture) and then in 15 minutes to the parking place. This last alternative is of great emotional impact, however please note that it is much longer than the other two (it takes about 3 hours to walk from the Krn summit, through the Botagnica summit, back to the parking area). This detail is very important because you have to give up in case of rain or unstable weather (and we know how unstable the weather is especially in mountain): walking on the Botagnica with bad weather conditions is very dangerous due to continuous lightning discharges. So, be careful, and choose the safest alternative in order to enjoy fully your hike.

(We thank Mr. Paolo Pellizzari of the Alpini Group of Lucinico - Gorizia for providing us detailed information on this itinerary)

First World War One Day Itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no. 12: the Flower’s Footpath on Adamello

Passerella del Gendarme
di Casamadre (source: aigg.org)

We have already recalled the strategic importance of the Adamello mountain range during the WWI when we described the itinerary to Rifugio Mandrone. Today we’d like to suggest another footpath on it: the Sentiero dei Fiori. Despite the easygoing name, the Flower’s footpath (Sentiero dei Fiori) is an itinerary for high expert hikers, which has to be undertaken during the summer in order to avoid ice and snow and only with excellent weather conditions. Experience and good physical shape is required because the circular itinerary is very exposed and takes about 6-7 hours. Besides the usual high-mountain equipment, you need therefore a via ferrata set, a helmet and a torch; crampons and ice axe are useful during the way back trough the Presena glacier. Above all you should not be afraid of heights: the path is in fact equipped with cables, ladders and hanging footbridges. Yet, if you walk on it you will enjoy the indescribable beauty of the landscape and observe along the road a great variety of alpine flower from which the track takes its name. And for us not to omit, you get the chance to walk an old thrilling and poignant trail of the Great War and to experience so for few steps what really meant the Alpine War of the 1915-1918.

View ascending to Castellaccio pass

Starting point is the Tonale Pass. If you drive with direction Ponte di Legno about 400m, you will find on your left the cable car "Paradiso", where you can park. The cable car takes you in about 15 minutes to Paradiso Pass. Please note that it works only during the summer time; alternatively opposite to the War Memorial at the highest point of the pass, a path winds up the cable car pylons to Passo del Paradiso; already in autumn it would however be probably impossible to continue to the Flower’s footpath due to the weather conditions on the top. From Passo Paradiso (2.590 m) walk along the little Laghetto di Monticelli inferiore (the lower lake of the Monticelli) and turn then right. Take the path n.44 that climbs quickly into a scree, where you'll find a monument to the WWI fallen men; barbed wire used to hinder a possible Austrian attack to the Pass can be seen everywhere. In about 1 hour you reach the Castellaccio Pass (2963 m), where you can have a great view on the Adamello-Presanella group. The Flowers’ footpath starts from here and runs along the crest for about 1.45 hours, till it reaches the Capanna Faustinelli. It is an equipped trail, recently restored, in a spectacular environment which is marked by the signs of the WWI.

The second footbridge today

Put on your climbing harness and the via ferrata kit on the Pass, and then you can start to walk. The first part follows the ledge with the help of metal ropes and boardwalks and leads to the small pass called “Gendarme di Casamadre”, from where the footpath continue along two footbridges, the first one is 75 meters long, the second one 55 meters. In July 2011 they were restored according to the photos taken during the Great War. As soon as the Italian soldiers arrived in this place at the front line, they built these hanging bridges in order to reach the military village of Lagoscuro pass. If you walk hanging in the empty space it is not difficult to taste a little more what the Alpine War was, especially if you try to imagine being in the winter time. In 1918 a tunnel was then dug in order to provide an alternative way to the aerial walkways and assure a better shelter from the Austrian snipers. You can walk in it, the entrance lays short before the starting point of the first footbridge (a torch is useful). The path continues then to Capanna Faustinelli (also called Capanna Lagoscuro), a small hut from the war time, then restored, at the foot of the Corno Lagoscuro (3165 m), where you can sit outside and have a break (the hut is often closed, for information contact the Amici di Capanna Lagoscuro). The landscapes is breathtaking, overlooking the range of the Rhaetian Alps. From here you have two possibility for the way back. Descend in direction of the underlying Lagoscuro Pass and after few rocks, on your left, you will find a signal-path with direction Refuge Capanna Presena, where you can also eat. This alternative enables you to avoid the Presena glaciers and is quicker. Otherwise, walk to Lagoscuro Pass (2070 m), from here you can reach in 1 hour the underlying lake, then climb in about 45 minutes to Maroccaro Pass, reach the Presena glacier and then in half an hour the Refuge Capanna Presena. From here you can reach by chair lift Passo Paradiso, and then by cable car Passo Tonale.

For further information or for support in planning your trekking we suggest to contact the Guide Alpine Adamello.

First World War one day itineraries through Italy. Suggestion no. 11: the fort of Monte Rite and the “Museum in the Clouds”

View of the fort of Monte Rite

Not only an old fort of the WWI, but at present also the highest museum of Europe. It was 1977 when the renowned alpinist Reinhold Messner conceived the idea of restoring the fortification of Monte Rite (2.181m) and – after a long work, in renovating and transforming the architecture of the building – he inaugurated in the summer 2002 the “Museum in the Clouds”, which owes his name to the great 360° panorama that can be admired on its top: the view ranges over the clouds, starting from south with the Monte Schiara and Agner, the group of Sfornioi-Bosconero, then crosses over Civetta and Pelmo, overlooks the “royal pair” Marmolada and Antelao, catches even the Tofana of Rozes, move on the Marmarole and, to close the circle on the other side of the valley of the Piave River, gazes far on the northern horizon at the skyline of Tudaio and Cridola and finally turns to Spalti di Toro and the Duranno at east. The museum itself offers a lot, from the history of the region and its inhabitants through the centuries to collection of paintings and other temporaries exhibitions. It is open from 1^st June till the end of September and you can find the latest updates on the Museum Program here.

The museum is however only a reason to visit Monte Rite, and not the main one for us, who would rather suggest a simple, yet very impressive itinerary related to the Great War. Monte Rite is placed on the crossroad of three of the most important valleys of the Dolomites – Ampezzo, Cadore and Zoldana – and had therefore a high strategic importance. That’s why the Italian Army started to build a fort on its summit already before the beginning of WWI, since about 1911. The buildings, with the storehouse, the cooking area and barracks that could host about 500 men, were connected with the valley by a mule track, that run then to the summit, where a military observatory was placed. As the Great War started the fort was not completed, nevertheless it became a defensive position from June 1915. Yet he was never at the really frontline: after the rout at Caporetto it was abandoned.

There are many ways to reach the summit – the most interesting one it’s maybe the path n. 494, which starts about 1km before the Passo Cibiana arriving from Forno of Zoldo and runs constantly through the wood. We’d like to suggest you however the shortest one (the ascent on the path takes about 1 hours), with starting point Passo Cibiana, so that you can have more time to spend on Monte Rite and on the ring path of its summit. The itinerary is very simple and even inexperienced hikers can undertake it, walking on the large mule track or eventually taking the shuttle bus to the “Museum in the Clouds”, available during the opening season (for fee, timetables and contact, see here; think about that during the summer the parking in the valley, the museum, as well the mule track may be quite crowded). 

For those who want to have a walk, instead, and to enjoy so the landscape at full, we suggest to park near the Rifugio Re Mauro or in one of the many areas nearby (pay attention, some of them are with fee), then walk along the mule track for about 10 minutes till you reach two small wood-houses. At the next bend you’ll see on the left a signpost that indicates the starting point of the panoramic path (the n.479, also called “Sentiero Col de Orlando”) entering in the conifer wood. The trail is really narrow and steep, maybe slippery with rain or snow, but presents no difficulties and the view, especially on the Group of Bosconero, is great. As soon as you come out from the trees, you have to cross some meadows before reaching the mule track and then, short after, the Forcella Deona. This is the first panoramic point which directs immediately your look to Antelao. If you follow the mule track you can reach in about 15 minutes the refuge and the museum-fort, but we suggest to proceed first on the ring path of Monte Rite. An information panel at Forcella Deona describes the main features of the 6 km trail: it takes about 1.30 hours and some equipped passage facilitate the walk, that has however to be undertaken only with good weather conditions and by trained hikers. Follow the indications and walk the small trail that runs around Monte Rite: you can reach so the different panoramic points, especially the Col Sette Prede, the Croce del Rite (on the peak of Monte Roan) and finally the top of Monte Rite. On this ring path you will discover remains of the WWI, many information panels describe moreover the flora and fauna of the surrounding. If it’s a sunny and clear day, the 360° view from the top of Monte Rite is indescribable, as we said; and even in a cloudy and snowy day (as this year was oft in the Dolomites till June) you can enjoy the view, breathe and imagine with the clouds. Close then the ring path and descend to the near fort that host the Museum – a visit is worth. Before coming back home, you can eat something and rest at the Dolomites Refuge, just walk 5 minutes on the descending mule track. Way back to Forcella Cibiana always on the mule track on feet or with the shuttle bus. 

(Here is the photo reportage about this itinerary.)

"Sur les pas de Wilfred Owen", the remembrance trail in Ors (Northern France)

Everybody knows that business-wise one of the most prominent points of the First World War Centenary is the worldwide tourism movement connected with it. Just to take the French case, every year millions of tourists visit the Somme battlefields. We have a similar situation in the Flanders fields. It's not the same with the Piave or Isonzo areas. Anyway, there's nothing wrong with the connection between the Centenary and tourism, provided that the touristic offer coming from WW1 tour operators is able to design always new and respectful paths and itineraries. Since the aftermath, the battlefields have always been the destination of people wanting to see and understand more about the battlefields where their beloved fought and too often died. So nothing is new on all fronts. We thank Delphine Bartier of ADRT NORD TOURISME for sharing with us the details, the press release and some pictures of the inauguration of the "Sur les pas de Wilfred Owen", a "remembrance trail" dedicated to one of the poets we already wrote about in this post. 

Here is the short introduction we read in the press release:

Ors, 4th November 1918, 05.45 hours: Second Lieutenant Wilfred Owen of the Manchester Regiment and his platoon launched an attack on a German position on the opposite bank of the Sambre-Oise canal. Under a hail of machine-gun fire, Wilfred Owen and 104 other men perished just one week before the signing of the armistice. One of the great names in modern poetry had fallen. 120 years after his birth, an audio-guided walk will take visitors in the footsteps of Wilfred Owen. Nord Tourism opens this walking trail and its associated interpretation panel on 2nd June 2013 along with Nord Pas de Calais tourism. Starting out from the Maison Forestière or Forester’s House opened in October 2011 and Simon Patterson’s work of art in his memory where he spent his last night, the trail passes through the woodlands of the Bois l’Evêque and the cemetery where he was laid to rest and on to the banks of the canal. An audio guided tour by Cambrai tourism office is also available free of charge. The 6 km trail (allow 1¾ hours) is also something of a nature walk taking in part of the woodland of the Bois l’Evêque and its history. The trail also speaks of the motivation of the mayor of Ors in paying to the poet, who was little known in France, the homage to which he is entitled.

Download the guide (from mid June in English):
www.tourisme-nord.com
www.remembrancetrails-northernfrance.com

The trail was officially launched on Sunday 2nd June, to see the trail in pictures:
www.facebook.com/GreatWarJourneys

More links:
http://www.patrimoinedefrance.fr/Sur-les-pas-de-Wilfred-Owen-son
http://nord-pas-de-calais.france3.fr/2013/06/03/ors-inauguration-d-un-chemin-sur-les-pas-de-wilfred-owen-poete-soldat-de-14-18-262775.html

And here below we are able to share some images of the trail we received.